A trip to the south of France this week to mark our last spell of good weather. The temperatures have been pretty much unbearable this summer in this part of the world, so maybe we’d better sip them in our gardens in Ireland instead.
It’s a bit too early to tell what the dry weather will do to the vines, but I expect it to be an early harvest with many vineyards picking their whites in August. I will have a conversation with a Languedoc winemaker later this week and report back next week.
Two new wines presented below come from the Domaine des Jeanne in the Luberon (formerly Côtes de Luberon). The Jeanne estate is owned by Jeanne and Mervyn Davies, the latter a Welsh peer and former trade minister under Gordon Browne, so I’m guessing he didn’t vote for Brexit.
The wines are only at Brown Thomas at the moment but can also be purchased online. I’ve worked my way through the range and found them eminently drinkable
The back labels of the estate’s wines are pleasantly cheesy with a GPS location of the vineyard given, as well as the altitude, age of the vines, rootstock, soil and vineyard size all listed.
In addition to the wines offered below, I also recommend the Janne Vaucluse Blanc which is floral and fruity (a blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc) and the succulent ripe Grenache-Syrah blend entitled “Légende” (€26) which is their limit red flagship edition. There are also a few lightweight tapers in the range.
O’Briens is having an organic sale this month and you’ll find good red, white and rosé wines from the South and a couple from Gérard Bertrand, including his excellent Cigales at €31.
I had originally planned to only include wines from Provence but the region is not as well represented on our shelves as you might imagine. Bandol seems to be absent from most lists but always be careful – Dom. The tempier in particular which is now imported by Vinos Tito after once being a mainstay in Joe Karwig’s range.
The Tempier Rosé is still the best I’ve tasted and I love their Grenache and Mourvèdre based reds which are available at Mitchells, 64 Wines and a few other online stores.
This charming fizz from Aldi has a distinct Provençal look and character, but is actually from Languedoc. A blend of Grenache and Syrah, plus Carignan, Cinsault and Mourvèdre, it has a pretty pale pink color, floral aromas of red fruits with citrus notes in the background that carry over into the mouth. Dry, crisp and refreshing – feel free to add strawberries.
This is on sale this month from €19.95 and for some reason I’ve never mentioned it before. This estate has been in the same family since 1824 and converted to organic about ten years ago. Pours a lovely pale pink/grey color with citrus and light raspberry flavors – fruity and crisp with more weight than expected.
This is part of O’Brien’s organic sale taking place this month and is reduced by €18. Begude wines are solid across their range and this cooler climate Limoux Chardonnay is bursting with textured apple and pear flavors with a pleasant citrus freshness. There is a touch of oak that rounds it out but is by no means overpowering. Try with fresh mackerel.
Dom. des Jeannes call it their “signature rosé” and it’s exactly as you’d hope. Onion skin pink in color with aromas of strawberry and lemon zest, it offers pleasant ripe red fruit on the palate with a hint of white pepper and grapefruit on the mid-palate and a solidly fruity finish.
It comes from the Vaucluse department in the Rhône just over the Luberon border (the landscapes are largely indistinguishable). Made from Syrah with typical aromas of tar and cassis, prune and blackberry, and a pleasant fruity palate. Its more gourmet big brother “Légende” (€26) is also recommended.
Miraval still has a connection to Brad Pitt despite Angelina selling her part (largely without his consent). Don’t be put off by the celebrity shtick, this is a gorgeous rosé and the 2nd wine ‘Studio By Miraval’ (€22) is also recommended. Fragrant creamy red fruit with tropical notes, crisp, tart and clean.
Absinthe Rebel Distillery, 52.6% ABV, 500ml – €50.00
The Rebel City Distillery in Cork should sound familiar to you as most of you have probably tasted their Maharani Gin. Rebel City Absinthe is their latest brilliant offering and was created from an 1871 French recipe using grand wormwood, green anise and fennel from Florence – no, absinthe doesn’t make you blind, c is a myth propagated by wine producers!
Tasted neat, it hits the palate with a burst of fruity anise followed by flavors of pepper, spice and rounded licorice. Adding water (3:1) is best because it mellows and broadens flavors and releases hidden esters – you need it in your drink cabinet.
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