Wine Hour with Aaron the Wine Guy

Hello Prince Albert! The Cabernet Sauvignon grape is hugely popular in Saskatchewan and even casual wine drinkers can often appreciate its intensely unique character. however, it eclipses another deliciously interesting and less common option, Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Franc (some pronounce it as Frank or Fronk) is traditionally found in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, but has found success in newer areas like the Okanagan Valley, Niagara Peninsula, Washington and Oregon. This variety is the parent variety of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and neither variety would exist without it.

Among its many unique characteristics, Cab Franc contains a chemical compound sometimes found in Cab Sauv called Pyrazine. This aromatic compound in the wine is expressed on notes of capsicum/bell pepper, grass or green vegetables (asparagus, peas) and adds a subtle nuance to the red fruits typical of Cab Franc such as raspberry, strawberry and cherry.

The temperature of the growing region and seasonal conditions affect the type of flavors that pyrazine exhibits. For example, a cooler growing period would produce notes of green pepper or asparagus stalk while a warmer growing period would create flavors of red pepper or even roasted peppers. Spicy cocoa and/or mineral (crushed gravel/earth) notes are also common.

Wine made from Cab Franc also tends to respond well to oak aging, with some types of oak adding sweet cedar and white pepper to aggressive oak which tends to produce wines with higher tannins and a stronger black pepper bite.

Historically, the Cab Franc grape pairs beautifully with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Carmenère, and Malbec, but many other variations are created and tasted, including single varietal options.

The choice to age or drink a Cab Franc comes down to the specific style of the wine. If it’s a simple wine with only fruit flavors and little tannin, it should be drunk quickly. If the wine has a decent tannic structure and develops flavors like leafy, leathery, mushroom, honeycomb, or chocolate, it should be considered for laying down.

When buying this varietal for storage and aging purposes, one should have a good understanding of the wine’s blend (percentage of varietals in the blend) the wood program used (new, charred, French, American oak) and the amount of time the wine has spent in oak barrels and in bottle. The initial age of the wine on the shelf is also important because one can quickly see at a glance how long the wine has aged. There are so many flavors to discover that you will have to go out and taste wines!

On a personal note, Cab Franc is an excellent choice to pair with cigars; specifically Cuban cigars. The reason for this is the grape’s overall lighter style with accented aromas of minerals (reflected in Cuban cigars), pepper and cocoa or herbal/green notes that blend into the earthy, nasal style of cigars such as the Montecristo No. 2, the Hoyo de Monterey Epicure No. 2 or the Romeo y Julieta Wide Churchill Cigar. For cheaper non-Cuban options, try Aladino which is made in the Cuban style of Honduras or the incredibly affordable Tierra Volcan line of cigars from Nicaraguan producer Mombacho.

Here is my selection of wines of the week!

Cave Spring Cabernet Franc 2019: (VQA Beamsville Bench, Ontario). Dry to semi-dry red, deep ruby. The nose is fruity and wild with balsamic blueberry, concentrated raspberry, white pepper and various field berries. Intense plum, blueberry, ground pepper flavors and tart acidity fill the mid-palate while grippy tannins create a plush mouthfeel. Flavorful toast and a long finish feature lingering pepper, earthy mushrooms and mineral stone. The high concentration flavor compensates for the higher acidity. Green pepper and bay leaf appear when the wine is opened. Delicious with a beef roulade, roast meats or grilled steaks. Very well! $30, 14% alcohol

Penley Estate Cabernet France 2019: (Coonawarra, Australia). Semi-dry red, deep ruby ​​color. Herbal spices, fennel, bay leaf and spearmint greet the nose with a drizzle of dark fruit balsamic. This Australian red is thick and heavy in taste with low acidity and flat but fruity flavors. Full-bodied, grassy notes with jammy raspberry and medium tannins. The finish is quick and simple, leaving traces of bittersweet honeysuckle. Unbalanced and flabby, possibly soiled or damaged by heat. Medium. $28, 14.5% vol.

Melipal Estate Bottled Cabernet Franc 2015: (Mendoza, Argentina). Dry red, deep ruby ​​color with visible discoloration on the edge. Dark fruits burst from the glass with figs, black raspberry, cocoa, blackberry, pencil shavings and mint. Further sniffles reveal savory soy sauce and bushberries. From the first sip, black cherry, liquorice and mint berries invade the palate. Tall, fuzzy tannins coat the tongue and teeth that accentuate the intense blackberry and savory black olives. Mocha, coffee and chocolate stand out on the finish, followed by white/black pepper, sweet cedar and cocoa. Medium-plus body with medium acidity and a minty spice and berry finish. Enjoy with grilled steak, beef/lamb skewers, olives, feta cheese or burgers. Very well! $25, 14% vol.

Well done and thank you for reading!

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